Exfoliants make a big difference to mature skin, resulting in smooth, soft, glowing skin in midlife. I can definitely see the difference it makes to my skin. And that’s why I’d never skip this important step in my skincare routine now.
But why do we need to use an exfoliant on mature skin?
Well, when we are young, our skin is able to naturally get rid of the build-up of dead skin cells more frequently and easily. But, as we age, this skin cell turnover slows down so our skin needs more help to do this. Enter the exfoliant.
Also, it makes sense to rid our skin of dead skin cells before applying our other skincare because applying our creams and serums onto dead skin cells means they can’t penetrate and do their jobs properly. So ultimately it’s a waste of time and money and you probably won’t see much improvement to your skin.
Is an acid exfoliant better than a physical exfoliant?
Skincare has evolved since exfoliation meant using granular, abrasive products to physically remove dead skin cells. (Although some people still enjoy using physical exfoliants.) But I love liquid acid exfoliants because they do the job without stripping the skin of its essential oils and potentially harming the skin barrier.
What are acid exfoliants?
Basically, acid exfoliants are acids that get rid of dead skin cells. They break down the “glue” that holds those dead skin cells together on your skin. And by breaking those bonds, the dead cells can be washed away, leaving newer cells that can absorb skincare more easily.
There are essentially 3 categories of acid exfoliants – AHAs, BHAs and PHAs.
These acid exfoliants (hydroxy acids) effectively optimise your skin renewal, unclog pores and leave your skin smoother with less visible fine lines and wrinkles. After seeing these results in my own skin, I can’t recommend it enough.
What’s the difference between an AHA, a BHA and a PHA?
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are great for ageing skin and normally preferred if you have normal to dry skin. They work on the skin’s surface to improve hydration, combat crepey skin texture and reduce sun damage (pigmentation). The top performers in this group of hydroxy acids are glycolic acids and lactic acids. Lactic acid tends to be better for sensitive skin and glycolic acid needs to be introduced gradually as it can penetrate quite far and can cause sensitivity.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are the preferred option for normal to oily or combination skin that may be more sensitive or is inclined to have milia, blackheads or blemishes. BHA works on the skin’s surface and within the pores to clear deeper buildup. It’s naturally calming and gentle enough for sensitive skin that may be prone to redness or rosacea. The most popular BHA is salicylic acid.
If you’re new to acid exfoliants, have rosacea or sensitive skin, it may be a good idea to start with a PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acids) and work your way up to a BHA and/or an AHA. PHAs are similar to AHAs in that they break down the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together. However, PHA molecules are larger than AHA molecules and are unable to penetrate as deeply as AHAs and BHAs. So they work on the skin’s surface and don’t tend to irritate. (That’s why they’re good for beginners or those with sensitive skin.)
My 4 favourite exfoliants for mature skin
Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
This product contains salicylic acid and is a cult product nowadays, thanks in part to TikTok. I like that it unclogs my pores leaving my skin feeling fresh. It’s worth pointing out that if you’re using an acid exfoliant and retinol (both help with skin renewal and cell turnover for mature skin), your skin barrier may become sensitive and sore – so keep an eye on it and cut back as necessary.
Sunday Riley Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment
This is a great acid exfoliant to use for maturing skin as it helps with fine lines and wrinkles. It’s also a great consistency and goes on really easily.
This is another AHA that contains 5% glycolic acid and liquorice extract to rejuvenate ageing skin. Great product.
Paula’s Choice 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliating Peel
Ooh, and this exfoliating peel is AMAZING! If you feel you need both an AHA and a BHA but worry that using two products together may be too much for your skin, you can be confident in using this Paula’s Choice product which combines the two different acids in a tried and tested formula that works wonders. This product has won numerous awards already. I highly recommend it.
Related: What you need to know about skincare for maturing skin
When to use an acid exfoliant in your skincare routine
After cleansing and before your serums, moisturiser and SPF in the morning.
I tend to use my acid exfoliants in the morning only so that I can use my retinol at night and it’s not too much for my skin at one time.
Other exfoliants for mature skin that I’d like to try
Trinny London has recently launched a range of acid exfoliants to suit varying skin types and needs. There’s an AHA, a BHA and a PHA exfoliant in her range. And her website makes it easy to see which exfoliant would suit your needs.
And lastly
Don’t forget to apply SPF when using acid exfoliants. After exfoliating, your skin becomes more sensitive to the sun and is more vulnerable to being damaged so it’ll need SPF protection.
Is an acid exfoliant part of your skincare routine?
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