So you’ve heard that retinol is an important product to use for mature skin but you don’t know why or where to start. Read on to find out why we should be using vitamin A and which are good retinol products for mature skin – at various price points.
What is retinol?
Retinol is essentially vitamin A. It stimulates the production of new skin cells and collagen and is widely considered by skin experts and dermatologists as the best ‘active’ skincare.
But there are various categories of vitamin A and over time the category called ‘retinol’ has basically become the generic term used for all vitamin A – which can be confusing.
So here’s a quick breakdown of the different categories:
Our skin cells have retinoic acid receptors and any retinoid must be converted into retinoic acid before it can bind with those receptors to regenerate skin cells and stimulate collagen production.
So pure retinoic acid (also known as Tretinoin/Retin-A) can bind directly to retinoid receptors in the skin and is the strongest retinoid available. And because it’s so potent, you can only get it with a prescription.
Over-the-counter retinoid products, on the other hand, have to go through a step-by-step conversion process in the skin before they can bind to the receptors. And with each additional step needed, the potency of the product is reduced. So because the retinoids found in non-prescription products must be converted several times before becoming retinoic acid, it’s necessary to use your products consistently and be more patient when it comes to seeing results. It is possible to achieve similar results with a non-prescription retinoid, but it may take longer.
So we’re looking at –
Retinoic Acid (strongest) – prescription
↓
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (granactive) (strong, direct bind) & Retinaldehyde (one conversion) – OTC
↓
Retinyl retinoate (R-retinoate) (one – two conversions) – OTC
￬
Retinol (two conversions) – OTC
↓
Retinol Esters – retinol palmitate/retinol propionate/retinyl palmitate (min. three conversions) – OTC
Retinyl palmitate is the weakest version. Names you may see on a label are retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, tretinoin, retinaldehyde, retinyl retinoate, hydroxypincolone retinoate, adapalene, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, beta carotene, or a natural derivative, rosehip oil. These are all vitamin A.
Knowing this breakdown will help you to understand the strength of the product you’re buying. When you’re starting out you may think you should start with the esters so as to ease your skin into using vitamin A but if you read on you’ll see why that may not yield the results you want.
Here are two handy illustrations featured on the Skin Rocks Instagram account. Skin Rocks is a skincare range by Caroline Hirons, a skincare expert/guru. I’ve learnt so much from her about all things skincare and highly recommend that you follow her on Instagram and buy her fantastic book called Skincare – The New Edit.
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What does a retinoid actually do?
Retinoid serums and creams deal with everything from texture to pigmentation to the signs of ageing. By stimulating the production of new skin cells, it basically gives you an even skin tone, a smoother skin surface, clearer pores, fewer wrinkles and more collagen. What’s not to love?!
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Which retinol product should I start with if I have mature skin?
If you’ve never used a retinoid before, retinol is a good place to start. It’s widely available and as it’s under 500 Dalton (more about this below), it can penetrate the skin and you’ll see results. It’s worth mentioning here that it can take from 1 to 6 months to start seeing results with continued use of your retinoid. So start now!
If you are over 40, it’s worth moving onto the retinal as soon as your skin can tolerate it because retinaldehyde is clinically proven to work up to 11 times faster than retinol and you’ll see quicker results.
Should I buy the most expensive retinoid that I can afford?
Firstly, our skin is a barrier designed to keep things out which means that if we want topical creams and serums to be able to penetrate our skin and do their work, the compounds need to be small enough to do so (under 500 Dalton). The 500 Dalton Rule is the scientific theory that the molecular weight of a compound must be under 500 Dalton in order for it to be absorbed into the skin.
All topical prescription drugs are under 500 Dalton. Transdermal drug delivery systems (like HRT patches) work like this. They are designed (under 500 Dalton) to deliver through the skin.
Knowing this, it’s interesting to discover that retinol has a 286 Dalton and retinyl palmitate has a 524 Dalton. Therefore, retinyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin. So using those esters may not be worthwhile if you’re looking for good results over the age of 40.
(Source: Skincare – The New Edit by Caroline Hirons.)
So then, should we buy the most expensive retinoid that we can afford? Well, all that to say, there’s no correct answer here. While it’s worth noting that a more expensive product doesn’t mean the product is more effective, if we want to see results, we do need to buy a product that has an optimal amount of good ingredients that can deliver results and also has the technology to penetrate the skin.
So here’s what you can do to make an informed decision
Check the ingredients list
When reading the ingredients list on products – know that ingredients are ordered from highest concentration to lowest. Generally, the first ingredient is the one that has the most amount in the product, whereas the last one listed has the least. So as a general rule, if the product has actives, they should be listed in the first five ingredients.
In addition to this, there is something called a ‘one percent line/rule’. Phenoxyethanol, parabens, disodium EDTA, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate are not allowed to be in the formula at a concentration higher than 1%. This goes for fragrances, essential oils and extracts too. So anything listed after these products will be formulated at less than 1% as well.
So if you’re paying big bucks for any active ingredient that is listed after these ingredients, you may be wasting your money. (But remember, a higher concentration is not always better.)
>>>>> UPDATE: Beautypedia is a skincare ingredient checker that allows you to analyze any skincare product. This is a great new tool!
Ask yourself whether you’re paying for a name, marketing or packaging (although packaging may be important)
Do some research – the optimal concentration of active ingredients and the right combination/formula are also important.
So ultimately – note the main ingredients in the product you’re buying, do some research, and then test whether it works for you.
Another thing to bear in mind is that when multiple active ingredients are used together, the effectiveness of your targeted treatments can be increased. For example, retinoids work well with hyaluronic acid.
How does a retinoid work?
Quick recap: Topical vitamin A works at a deep cellular level in the skin to accelerate the rate of cell turnover which means that new/fresh cells make their way to the skin’s surface more quickly. (This is why it can turn dull skin into glowing skin.) It helps to boost collagen and elastin production.
The best retinol products on sale today use advanced formulations and slow-release encapsulation delivery systems to lessen the irritation that can be caused by this increased cell turnover.
How do you use retinoids?
Here’s what you need to know:
- Start slowly because using too much too soon can lead to irritation (redness) and skin flaking.
- Start with a small amount of a milder percentage and slowly build up. Generally, it takes one tube/jar of product to build up a tolerance and allow you to move on to the next strength level. Don’t be tempted to increase the dose or frequency if you aren’t experiencing any irritation or flaking! It’ll only result in having to stop using your retinoid until your skin calms down again. Believe me, your patience will pay off in the end because when your skin is tolerant of vitamin A, you will see the huge benefits.
- Process: use it once a day (at night) every 3 nights for 2 weeks, then every other day for 2 weeks. Eventually, you’re aiming for every night.
- Avoid the area immediately around the eyes, around the nose and the corners of the mouth, and the neck area can be quite sensitive.
- Only use your retinol at night (as sunlight breaks down vitamin A).
- Always wear an SPF during the day as your skin will be more sensitive.
- Apply it to dry skin after cleansing and before moisturising.
- Rub it in, don’t wait for it to be absorbed.
- Do not use vitamin A if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Can people with sensitive skin use retinoids?
Those with sensitive skin could try applying a moisturiser 5 minutes before applying vitamin A, to buffer it. And then apply moisturiser 20 minutes afterwards too. This will dilute it.
Related: Why is vitamin A vital in midlife?
Here are good retinol products for mature skin
Despite knowing all this information about retinoids, it can still be difficult to know which are good retinol products for mature skin. So I’ve listed 34 good ones that could suit your skin. Try one of the beginner ones if you’ve never used retinoids before, but if you’re over 40, it would be beneficial to move to an intermediate-range one and then on to an advanced retinoid product more suited to mature skin when your skin is ready.
Beginner (Mild)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane (low strength, moderate irritation)
Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil (good for sensitive skin)
Votary Intense Night Oil (good for sensitive skin)
Garden of Wisdom Granactive Retinoid 5%
Intermediate
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion (moderate strength, no irritation)
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane (moderate strength, no irritation)
The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane (moderate strength, high irritation)
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum
Medik8 Retinol 3TR + Intense, 6TR + Intense, 10TR + Intense
Kate Somerville +Retinol Vita C serum
Advanced
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane (high strength, no to low irritation)
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane (high strength, very high irritation)
Paula’s Choice Clinical 1% retinol treatment
Sunday Riley A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream 1%
Trinny London Overnight Sensation Retinal Serum
Medik8 r-Retinoate Day & Night (there’s retinyl retinoate in this one)
Medik8 r-Retinoate Intense (there’s retinyl retinoate and retinaldehyde in this one)
The retinoid that I use
I’m using Medik8 Crystal Retinal 10 right now.
When it comes to retinoids, industry insiders rate Medik8 highly. Their serum contains the brand’s trademarked Crystal Retinal, which only requires one conversion within the skin to become retinoic acid, and can work up to eleven times quicker than retinol. (If you’re older and new to retinoids, try the Crystal Retinal 1, gradually working your way up the line: 3, 6, 10. There is also the in-clinic only 20.)
Retinol products for mature skin – conclusion
There are so many benefits to using retinoids when you’re over 40 – smoother, glowing, hydrated, plumper skin with fewer fine lines and wrinkles and better elasticity. I’ve seen an improvement in my skin since using retinoids. I have also found that I don’t need to wear as much makeup anymore either because my skin is clear and glows naturally.
I hope you’ve found some good retinol products for mature skin in this article. And that you feel clearer about what retinoids are all about.
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